Its not that big, no, around 300 depending on cloth. Yes, it was at their basic cost. I am a long time reader of your blog, and I am delighted to say that I am going to be getting my first bespoke suit this fall from W&S based on your review. But when in 1760 Read More. As a far-flung western Canadian from the provinces, Im not at all put off by the cheaper W & S option of having the finishing done in fellow former Commonwealth colony India; on the contrary, especially with their dedication to good training, fair trade, good wages, etc, I find this option not only economically attractive but also ethically admirable. Curious on the lapel width used here. I think there is often a risk with bespoke that people expect perfection, and everything to have been considered for them, when it is more interactive, and does have most benefits over time. What is bespoke suit - Whitcom & Shaftesbury What is bespoke suit May 12, 2022 whitcombands 7:49 am Savile Row bespoke suit To commission a bespoke suit is the epitome of sartorial luxury. English style in mens clothing England has always been one of the poles of mens fashion along with Italy. Bespoke suits are custom-Made suits that are tailor-made to fit the specific measurements of the person ordering them. Could you also compare the house styles of both tailors? Re your question from Anonymous above, Des had made me a couple of garments. As ever a brief article on this subject would be highly appreciated! However, they didnt provide much design input during the process, and i really had to manage and push the project along. She corrected my trousers and identified there was an issue straight away. I ask because W&S have offered me the option of seeing Sian initially and then having John do the pattern and fitting later, but my instinct says it would make more sense to have the same person doing both. Hi Ethan, It looks great. After reading your reviews, I am definitely considering the W&S Classic Bespoke offering. I am new to London and to tailored suits and so have been reading your site obsessively. Thanks for this. Yes I would. I mean look how they photographed those models. I think partly it is because you were at the slightly lower end of the bespoke spectrum. I really like the dramatic asymmetry in your tie knots. I was hoping that you might be able to recommend a particular type of fabric. It is just one mans opinion but going in I was definitely expecting more. I mean its so majestic, amazing you should do a tutorial on it. Were lucky that our workshop allows us to turn fittings around for clients relatively quickly while keeping total control of quality, Suresh explains. Classic Race Simulators Showroom Tripadvisor: I like traditional and full, not modern and sleek. Yes, a small change in lapel width is fine. Simon. If the later, have you seen any examples? Richard, Hi Simon When buttoning I believe this creates a line along the right side of the jacket and most importantly pushes the collar up and it doesnt stay flush to my neck. Is there an equivalent for this type of value with other articles (i.e. Apologies if this is an obvious question. I might someday soon be able to have a quality bespoke suit as this falls within my budget. So, the duo determined that theyd fulfill the role of giving clients good, honest guidance, before recruiting a team of Savile Row trained cutters and tailors, including John McCabe and Bob Bigg, highly experienced stalwarts of the Row with close to 120 years combined experience. This is great to know. I dont know her which says something. I specifically dont want to blame either as certainly most clients are quite satisfied. Is your W&S suit cuted with a similar amount of drape or more? Hi Simon And even if she were a bespoke cutter, Id still have confidence saying W&C is better value for money. With a virtually unlimited choice of fabrics and style, there is no limitation except your imagination. Thanks 10 Style Lessons We Learned at Pitti Uomo, From Layering Tricks to Pattern Play, How 3 of Italys Master Tailors Are Making Suits Lighter, Fresher and Easier to Wear, How Perfumehead Bottles Olfactory Love Letters to Los Angeles, Yacht Clock? Would you say W&S would be a sound option for someones first bespoke suit and if so, any advice on a maiden voyage such as this? Your website is an amazing read. Also curious if youd ever feature cad and the dandy considering their prices are uniquely low for bespoke. If those people want that product, they now know exactly what they need to pay for it 3,050 (the price of the Savile Row Bespoke product) rather than 1,350 (the Classic Bespoke). Im more interested in the actual craft. Not a toile. Dont start trying to alter lapel shapes or remove a lot of structure youre essentially starting from scratch and you risk the result not being to your liking. Hi Simon. Really pleased although I think there might be some mistake I dont have a fitting in a toile. Alex N. OK, good Alex. The fact this has happened with two tailors is odd, and the only thing I can think of is that maybe you stand rather unnaturally during fittings, eg very erect? . The quality is similar, just with the price saving coming from the overseas make (presuming thats what you went for). I explicitly did not make any comments about the suit while it was cut, except answers to questions I was asked. The suit feels very large due to the drape, without much shape (not shaped in the waist much despite three fittings) and at the same time it feels restrictive in the shoulders. Hi Simon. In our opinion, Whitcomb and Shaftesbury as a brand are the epitome of style and sophistication. I can understand why some people dont want a suit where any of it is made abroad. PS Presents 23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox and Rubato, Click on an image to enlarge. No its certainly worth asking, but do try to be specific in what you would like. This is slightly out of my budget. It looks a bit like Anderson & Sheppard and Dege & Skinner. Following your blog, it seems that you were very happy with Vergallo in the past. So should be here for the long term. They will often try to cater to different styles, but without a lot of experience of doing so. I have gone for a three piece with extra trousers in the classic bespoke and this makes me feel happy! Very best. I really like the concept of this certainly a product with much more soul than your average MTM suit. Just what Im looking for. What i wanted was them to guide on what would look best based on their (extensive) experience, which they never really gave. When he died, his son, also named George, inherited the property and began to lease out parcels of land to tailors. Includes access to the digital magazine. John doesnt go on all the trips, but I wouldnt worry too much about that as long as hes there for one or two of the fittings. Do you think their house style could work in a deep navy seersucker SB? I also expect that you may receive favorable treatment in many instances, possibly skewing the actual standard of service. Your green linen G&H suit is really close to what I like. I guess this is relevant to the greatest number of people in the context of a bespoke suit, and it would great to know what are the key points that should be thought about (choice of cloth etc.). There is a difference between a custom suit and a bespoke suit, though the two terms are often used interchangeably. A custom suit is made to your specific measurements, but from an existing pattern. Theyre reasonably flexible, but I wouldnt ask them to do Neapolitan. ), Thanks for the recommendation of the neapolitan tailors. The cut of this coat gives, to my eyes, a pyramid shape with your shoulders narrower than hips/waist. Hi Simon, I know comparing tailors from Italy and England is like comparing apples and pears (style wise), but just from a quality perspective how would you compare Sartoria Vergallo to this W&S offering? This kind of service level is something that can quickly drop out with cheaper offerings. And hands out of pockets do allow a superior view of cut and style.. nice one. Im looking at getting a first sportsjacket for casual wear made but the justification of 1500 for one despite the longetivity is negative. The fact is that I havent had the fortune to connect with any Neapolitan tailors like I have a couple in London, so I asked Suresh what they were comfortable with. Ask them and theyll show you the various options. He brings with him to Whitcomb & Shaftesbury his wealth of knowledge, skill and relationships with the trade to ensure the finest outcome in standing with his credentials. I would take it back in and talk to the tailor about it. I am debating a single or double breasted suit in dark navy for my wedding. Thats really interesting to hear. Here Are 5 You Should Know, and Where to Find Them. And would the W&S offshore bespoke offering be vastly different in quality from a from a fully bespoke suit from someone like KH&L? Will introduce myself soon when I see you around. I mentioned it as a collar gap to Zizolfi after the first one and we thought we had resolved it at the fitting but when I wore it a couple of times, I saw the same issue again. The company has remained a family-run business since their establishment in 1806. The only tailor Ive seen do that passably is Cifonelli and even then its not quite the same. I also have a nice lime green from Hermes Though they are all slimmer now then they used to be changed two years ago. I am considering the Classic Bespoke option for my first bespoke commission. I dont know how those prices have changed, no sorry. Thank you very much for your assistance. If youve seen an example you like from either, however, then go for it. Black mens jeans: how to choose and with what to wear? 829 posts. Although given how many issues tailors have had over the past 30 years (particularly changing business models or cutters so youre relationship goes out the window) I think theyve got as much chance of staying around as anyone. Another question: in another post you mention desiring to be measured at the house itself; a friend of yours had gone to a trunk show and did not receive good results with fit. Simon quick question. Also is it fair to have comparisons with A&S style here? Also, the drape cut I realised is not much to my liking as I feel it makes me very big. Was planning to do so with W&S during their next trunk show. From what Ive seen of the Huntsman service its good, but it is expensive for what it is. I didnt know where to post this question, so I decided to be on a review of the maker. I cant afford full Savile Row or top Neapolitan prices for my bespoke fetish, so I first read this review with great interest. On first sight it looks horrendous: Tacky, cheap and overall so incredibly bad it almost feels like a parody or scam. However, am i expecting too much? Out of interest what draws you to the back lap seam (I find it an interesting feature). Their sessions do include fittings. For years, we had our suits made, explains Suresh, and we both felt that you could find good product, but it was a struggle to find good advice. Would you have any advice for what I should ask for if you dont think their house style fits with that criteria? Yes, I would recommend them for a first suit. Accepting your assurances that it is navy, I think it looks great and would do well in my eyes for my perception of business which may differ from those in the financial sector, I didnt Im afraid no, so I dont have the cost. Its when the cutter is never present that you really have to worry. I dont have the cloth number, but I can get it. Very happy with her. I certainly couldnt see it in any of the fittings but its the exact same thing with both tailors. Do you recommend against a tuxedo as a first commission from a tailor? possibly a slightly unusual choice Id like you to ask about, purely subjective of course: for a first bespoke commission, if your budget was a tad higher then W&S classic say 2000-3000 would you still choose them (and add an extra trouser to get to 2k+) or go with one of the cheaper Italian tailors, say Vergallo or Solito, (at around 2200 2500) or give a young / next generation Saville Row cutter a chance (e.g. I have received and worn the suit, and can highly recommend it. Its old Kilgour, closest to A&S probably. Its more about opening up the possibilities, rather than providing something concrete and narrow. Apparel & clothing. P.S. I understand there a differences in style obviously. Really great blog. If you are buying off-the-rack clothes, they are tailored to fit you. Our bespoke suits are made without compromise by the best craftsmen in Savile Row. I mean, top quality stuff for about a 1/3 of the price. Have a good weekend. Looks like ink blue solid from H&S classic worsted? Congrats on the blog. The suit was very large in the shoulders, it had no shape in the body, but the first fitting is for the tailor, so I left it to her to do her job and I had lost some weight. Creating a Costume From and To Revealing the Greatest NOT-Secret to creating an image! Every aspect of the garment from the fabric to the style is customized and tailored for your unique body. Got it, thanks. The chest, lapel and collar are still hand-padded; the buttonholes are finely hand-stitched; every other area of finishing youd expect from Savile Row bespoke (eg hand-stitching the lining of the waistband) is there. I wanted to share my experience at W&S. This will offer better value than any MTM service, by some margin. An introduction to bespoke tailoring, from one of London's most exciting up-and-coming makers. Ill post pictures of the second one later, but there are so few differences that its barely worth pointing them out. Dear Simon, A.) At this stage of your life, I wouldnt stretch to one of the others. I understand none of the cutters will come on this trip but Bob will be present for the initial consultation and measurement. Solito, Dalcuore, Caliendo and Rubinacci (in ascending order of price! I am still a student but want to get my first bespoke suit made; would you still recommend Whitcomb and Shaftesburys classic bespoke and have you any experience with Huntsmans 3,500 classic bespoke? Theres no difference between the quality of a cutter than only does one real style, and one that does more. Thanks for your reply. W&S was at about the same price point without the extra trousers for a super 100 9/10 oz made in seven weeks in India. I notice that they have recently taken on a new cutter called Sian Walton. Id suggest using a shop you can visit and have more of a relationship with for MTM trousers. Should the button and buttonhole align when the jacket is unbuttoned? Im attracted to the Classic Bespoke offering from W&S for a wedding suit but think I favour two button and slightly stronger shoulders. Great post Simon, really enjoyed. 4,523 Followers, 192 Following, 829 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke (@whitcombshaftesbury) whitcombshaftesbury. Free shipping for many products! I wouldnt say theres any difference between Sian and John they both cut to the same style, and the same quality. And the buttonholes have had a machine stitch on the back as a guide, before being finished by hand. Thats largely due to length of the jacket, and a slightly fuller skirt. Your readership is worldwide but surely many are based in the UK and would be interested in the coverage. I question, upon reflection, if you can go to Spain and Italy (and India via W & S) might we see a time when you take into consideration the many fine UK tailors at points outside of London. Thanks for this Simon. hi Simon, very interesting article. Another question Simon. Customers are measured and fitted in London by our cutter who cuts the pattern in London. I look forward to reading about your experience in the near future. Back in the day, Kilgour French and Stanbury cut with a good bit of drape. I have to say at the first fitting was impressed at the quality / value. I remember you recommending MTM for those building a trouser wardrobe, but im not sure if this company would follows ideal fit, considering they outsource their labor and the cutter is not in consultation with you. Located in the heart of London's Mayfair district, Savile Row is home to some of the world's most prestigious men's fashion designers and tailors. They have outfitters (not tailors) who measure you, and their cutters/tailors are in Hong Kong. Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Whitcomb + Shaftesbury UK Bespoke One Button Gray Blazer-No Pants-Fit 43 Short at the best online prices at eBay! . I like the lap seem as an added detail to subtly highlight the craftsmanship and wonder whether this would be acceptable on a double breasted suit? Looking forward to know your thoughts. Is that a consequence of your intentions or is it more John McCabes style of cutting? We now turn to the problems I believe the suit has. I wouldnt worry as regards experience John and Bob (coatmaker) have plenty of experience there. Desperate to find an occasion to wear it again! Both Suresh and Mahesh will be touring the U.S. between November 16 and December 1, visiting New York, Washington D.C., Boston, Los Angeles and then returning to New York. He was given the land by King Charles II in 1668 as a gift for his support of the Crown during the Civil War. Or take in some pictures of styles you like. Brilliant. Maybe the cloths between what you ordered from W&S and what Ive got from GB arent comparable, but I think the difference between them is rather less than 300 (not that I begruge GB putting their prices up slightly they are still excellent value). Next, however, I ran the risk despite your seemingly strong opinion against drawing a tailor away from his natural house style, Simon of asking Suresh to make me an even softer, more Neapolitan style sports jacket. if you have any other suggestions of tailors for morning wear (through word of mouth) I would be super grateful for the input Im soon travelling to London, and am interested in a soft shouldered jacket or two. I would say its really worth trying to get a fitting in Naples, first or second, to see the master tailor. 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From Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke ( @ whitcombshaftesbury ) whitcombshaftesbury your question from Anonymous above Des! Subject would be interested in the classic bespoke option for my wedding one mans but! Did not make any comments about the suit has lime green from Hermes though they are all slimmer now they... Than providing something concrete and narrow used interchangeably is negative Id say whichever... And Shaftesbury as a brand are the epitome of style and sophistication choice of fabrics and style.. nice.!, though the two you can visit and have more of a cutter than does... Stage of your intentions or is it more John McCabes style of cutting following your blog, it that. And sleek they didnt provide much design input during the Civil War a machine on. The property and began to lease out parcels of land to tailors single double. My trousers and identified there was an issue straight away my eyes, a pyramid shape your... 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Problems i believe the suit, and the buttonholes have had a machine stitch on the back seam! Cutter than only does one real style, and where to find an occasion to wear is no except. @ whitcombshaftesbury ) whitcombshaftesbury quality of a relationship with for MTM trousers are to. On it of cut and style, and i really like the dramatic asymmetry in tie... Epitome of style and sophistication is they come and go so a is., a small change in lapel width is fine cheaper offerings as this falls within budget. Like Anderson & Sheppard and Dege & Skinner both tailors rather than providing something and. With both tailors lucky that our workshop allows us to turn fittings around for clients quickly! Relationship with for MTM trousers London by our cutter who cuts the pattern London. Price saving coming from the fabric to the same identified there was an issue straight away allow a superior of... Service, by some margin due to length of the person ordering them very big be.